Why Lube Your Switches?

Out of the box, most mechanical switches — even premium ones — have a degree of scratchiness or inconsistency. Lubing involves applying a thin coat of lubricant to the internal switch components to reduce friction, eliminate scratchy sounds, and produce a smoother, more satisfying keystroke. It's one of the most recommended mods in the hobby, and the results are immediately noticeable.

What You'll Need

  • Switch opener — A small plastic tool that pries open switch housings without damage. Saves significant time over a flathead screwdriver.
  • Lubricant — The most commonly used lubes are Krytox 205g0 (for linears) and Tribosys 3203 (for tactiles). Avoid thick lubes on tactile switches as they can kill the bump.
  • Small paintbrush — A size 0 or 00 art brush works well for applying thin, even coats.
  • Switch stem holder — Holds the switch stem steady while you apply lube. A foam pad or a dedicated holder tool both work.
  • Container / tray — To hold disassembled parts without losing them.

Step 1: Open the Switch

Place the switch top-down on your opener tool and press firmly. The four clips on the housing should release and the top housing will pop off. Set both housing halves aside. You'll now have: top housing, bottom housing, stem, and spring.

Step 2: Lube the Spring

Springs can develop a pinging sound when the keyboard is used. To prevent this, lightly coat the spring with a thin layer of lube. Some builders prefer bag lubing: put all springs in a small bag with a tiny amount of lube and shake gently to coat evenly. This is faster when doing 60–100+ switches.

Step 3: Lube the Stem

This is the most important step. The stem is the moving part of the switch — the part your fingers push. Apply lube to:

  1. The legs (the two vertical rails on either side of the stem) — apply a thin coat on all four sides.
  2. The bottom of the stem — where it contacts the bottom housing.

Important for tactile switches: Do NOT lube the tactile legs on the stem (the small nubs near the base of the legs). Doing so will reduce or eliminate the tactile bump — the very thing you're trying to preserve.

Step 4: Lube the Bottom Housing

Apply a thin coat to the rails inside the bottom housing — the two channels the stem legs travel along. Also lube the inside bottom surface lightly. Avoid the contact leaf (the thin metal tab at the front) — getting lube on it can cause inconsistent actuation.

Step 5: Lube the Top Housing (Optional)

Many builders skip this step. A light coat on the inside of the top housing can smooth things out further, but it's the least critical surface to lube. If you're short on time, skip it.

Step 6: Reassemble

Drop the spring back into the bottom housing, place the stem on top of the spring, then snap the top housing back on. You should hear a clean click as it locks. Test the switch by pressing it a few times — it should feel noticeably smoother.

Tips for Efficiency

  • Set up an assembly line: open all switches, then lube all springs, then all stems, then reassemble.
  • A 65-switch TKL build typically takes 2–4 hours to lube fully.
  • Less lube is almost always better. A thin, even coat beats a thick, pooled one.
  • If you over-lube, the switch may feel mushy or scratchy in the opposite direction — disassemble and wipe down before re-applying.

The End Result

Lubed switches feel noticeably smoother, sound deeper and more consistent, and generally make a board more enjoyable to use. It's a time investment, but one that almost every enthusiast considers worthwhile. Once you've typed on a well-lubed board, it's hard to go back.